keep in mind that the foamclay is quick air drying. You can smooth it out with your finger and some water and use plastic or metal sculpting tools if you think that would be easier. To make the second eye, wet the mask with a little water on the place that you want to use the foamclay. Sand a bevel into both pieces on the underside and glue together. Glue into place.Ĭut out the nose bandaid shape. Glue them into place.Ĭut out the nose from the pattern and round with the sanding bit on your dremel. Make some holes in the forehead of the mask for the bolts(foam dowels) that you cut earlier. If there is any overhang of the 2 mm foam, trim from the back and dremel down if needed. Also glue down the 2 mm foam along the entire edge of the mask. Once you've got it heated up and formed pretty well, glue in a few spots underneath the 2mm foam to hold it in place. just keep in mind that if you reheat a section,you'll lose the work that you just did because the foam will contract when heated. Heat up one spot, then press along the shapes, holding for a little bit and then moving onto another section. The best way to do this is to do it in sections. Once you've layed it over the face, now its time to heat up the foam. Use your pattern to trace and cut out a hole in the foam for the telescope eye to fit through. We start by cutting out a piece of 2 mm foam about an inch larger than the small base weve been working on. Now that you've made the under structure we are going to do the actual skinning. Place the made dome into the circle you made earlier and glue it into place from the back.įinally, glue the telescope eye down to the base.Ĭut 2 small pieces of 15 mm foam dowel about 3/4 in long for the bolts on the forehead and put aside for now. Again again, No one will see this, so it doesn't have to be pretty. Hot glue the edges of the 2 mm along the back of the dome. After the 20 seconds, it should be able to retain its shape pretty well. You don't need to stretch very much, just enough to have no wrinkles on the dome face. Stretch and wrap foam around the dome and hold it there for about 20 seconds. You'll need to heat up both sides for about 4 seconds each. Then, you'll use a heat gun to heat up a piece of 2 mm foam to stretch and wrap around the dome. Again, it doesn't have to be perfectly smooth because it is getting covered. Cut out that shape and round the piece into a dome with your dremel. Place that circle over a piece of 10 mm foam and trace out the inside circle. Once you've done that, you can hot glue all of those pieces down to the base.įor this, start by cutting out a strip of 10 mm foam 7/8 in wide and 7 in long and glue the ends together. I did not cut the eye hole until later but I recommend you do this first and round out the inside on the eye hole with your dremel BEFORE attaching those pieces. this does not have to be pretty because it will get covered. The forehead, nose, and cheek are 5 mm foam and the 2 circles under the nose and the eyebrow are 10 mm foam.Īll you have to do with those pieces is round them out with the sanding bit on your dremel on one side. So, in this step I created the understructure.Ĭut out the peices on the pattern with the corresponding foam. In order to do this method, you start with a base of shapes that you drape a very thin foam over. The way I did this was by a method called skinning. The next thing we need to do is make the shapes of the face.
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